Travel Journal

Ena’s Little Black Book on Photo Tours Bulgaria – Presiyan Petkov, the rose fields, the elderflower soda, and the guide who turned a lost camera into a story. I arrived in Bulgaria for a photography trip without a camera. I had left my entire camera bag on the plane in Vienna. By the time I […]

Ena’s Little Black Book on Donjuán Cartagena. Chef Juan Felipe, a coconut ceviche worth flying for, and the reason you need to make reservations well in advance. Some of the most memorable people you meet while traveling are the ones who invite you, quite literally, into their world. We met Juan Felipe in Cartagena during […]

From Ena’s Little Black Book: Zack Lepaso, the safari guide who made our days at andBeyond Kichwa Tembo personal, and why you should ask for him by name. You couldn’t help but like Zack from the moment you met him. It was the smile. The infectious enthusiasm. He was endlessly knowledgeable, genuinely funny, and somehow […]

Ena’s Little Black Book on a Dolomites photography tour with Leo Papèra, the photographer who taught me to wait for the light, and lied about the hike. A friend suggested I look up a photographer named Leonardo Papèra when I was planning a few days in the Dolomites. I loved his work, sent him a […]

From Ena’s Little Black Book: Torres del Paine, Patagonia — Explora Lodge, the trails worth the flight, and the details that made it. Getting here is part of the story. It’s a long drive from Punta Arenas, somewhere in the middle, your driver stops at what may be the only restaurant on the road. By […]

Where to stay in Cusco, from Ena’s Little Black Book – Belmond Hotel Monasterio, where a Spanish monastery sits atop an Inca palace and the altitude goes quiet. A Spanish monastery built atop an Inca palace, where the walls have borne witness to 500 years of history. Cusco sits at 11,000 feet and will remind […]

Where to stay in Sacred Valley Peru, from Ena’s Little Black Book. Tambo del Inka, close to the Andes, and the hotel that handles everything. In the Quechua language of the Incas, tambo means place of rest. They were not wrong. The Incas knew this river as Willkamayu, the Sacred River, and believed it was […]